What To Avoid - Lotions And Potions: Skin Health


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What to avoid


It's always important to read the ingredients labels of creams and lotions, especially if you have sensitive skin. Some may contain substances that will irritate it. The American Academy of Dermatology says these skin care product ingredients should be avoided by people with sensitive skin:

  • preservatives; the least irritating preservatives are parabens, such as methyl paraben and butyl paraben

  • botanical or antibacterial ingredients

  • solvents that penetrate the skin, including propylene glycol and ethanol. A better alternative is polyethylene glycol, which does not penetrate the skin.

Quick guide to product ingredients

The labels of anti-aging products promote some impressive-sounding ingredients. What are they? Can they help your skin? This glossary can help you see through the hype on the cosmetics shelves. The evidence supporting the benefits of these ingredients is incomplete.

Alpha lipoic acid: An antioxidant that may decrease skin roughness and wrinkles.

Antioxidants: Substances that neutralize free radicals, damaging molecules that accelerate skin aging and promote skin cancer.

Coenzyme Q10: Ubiquinone, an antioxidant, that reduces wrinkle depth and protects against UVA.

Copper peptide: Copper is a metal with antioxidant properties found in every cell in the human body. Copper peptides (see "Peptides," below) enhance wound healing and may increase collagen and elastin production.

Date palm: An extract from the date palm tree (Phoenix dactylifera); a topical product containing date palm got results similar to the antiwrinkle drug Renova in at least one clinical trial.

Dimethylaminoethanol (DMAE): A neurotransmitter produced in the brain; an extract in gel form may reduce wrinkles, neck sagging, and circles under the eyes.

Genistein: A derivative of soy and an antioxidant; it inhibits UVB damage to the skin.

Green tea: An antioxidant and an anti-inflammatory agent; it may inhibit UV damage and photoaging.

Growth factors: Substances that occur naturally in the human body and in plants; they contribute to wound healing and may repair photodamaged skin.

Kinetin: N6-furfuryladenine; a plant growth factor and an antioxidant that may reduce wrinkles, smooth skin texture, and even out skin tone.

Niacinamide: Vitamin B3; an antioxidant that reverses signs of photoaging.

Peptides: Short-chain amino acids that may assist with production of collagen and elastin and have other beneficial effects on the skin.

Vitamin A: An antioxidant vitamin and the active ingredient in Retinol, a drug that reduces photodamage and increases collagen production.

Vitamin C: An antioxidant vitamin; topical preparations reduce wrinkles and improve skin texture and tone.

Vitamin E: An antioxidant vitamin; its effect on aging skin is unknown.

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Last updated: July 20, 2007

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