Lotions And Potions: Skin Health
Content provided by the Faculty of the Harvard Medical School
Lotions and potions
A widely advertised face cream sells for $135 per 6-ounce tube. Its claim to wrinkle-smoothing fame: a "patented oligo-peptide." Would you buy it? Another skin care company contends that its "mineral complex of magnesium, zinc, and copper has been optimized to provide visible reductions even in deep wrinkles." Do you believe it? Because the FDA doesn't regulate these claims, how do you know which to believe? Even if the ingredients aren't harmful, at often exorbitant prices they could remove more cash from your wallet than wrinkles from your skin.
With the exception of colors and certain prohibited ingredients, a cosmetics manufacturer can use essentially any raw material in a product and market it without prior FDA approval. This gap in oversight is a cause of concern because of the growth in recent years of cosmeceuticals, chemicals in cosmetics that have physiological effects, such as boosting collagen production and inhibiting sun damage to reduce wrinkles (see "Cosmeceuticals"). Several cosmeceuticals have therapeutic effects, but because they are not classified as drugs, they are exempt from government regulations.
Although cosmetic claims are allowed without scientific substantiation, if a cosmetic makes a medical claim, such as removing dandruff or altering skin structure or function, the product is regulated as a drug for which scientific studies demonstrating safety and effectiveness must be submitted to the FDA.
If you're wondering whether a lotion or cream will do what it claims, remember that only a few substances have a scientifically demonstrated ability to reduce or prevent wrinkles in controlled studies. Such substances are discussed in the following pages. Most of the ingredients in skin care products aren't harmful, but while you may enjoy their fragrance, texture, or temporary effects, think twice about investing too much hope or cash in unproven promises.
Fast factThere are no government standards for the use of words on cosmetic labels such as "dermatologist-tested," "allergy-tested," "hypoallergenic," "non-irritating," "herbal," "natural," or "cruelty-free, non–animal tested." These terms are often employed solely for marketing purposes. The ingredient list on the label is the only source of reliable, government-required information. |
| Last updated: | July 20, 2007 |
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Medical content reviewed by the Faculty of the Harvard Medical School. Harvard Health Publications, Copyright © 2007 by President and Fellows of Harvard College. All rights reserved. Used with permission of StayWell.
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