Lip Care Revealed

Best Lip Care Tips

By Mary Kearl

From lipstick to lip balm, beauty products up-and-down the beauty aisle claim to defend against wind and chapping, sunburn and aging. But which ingredients offer optimal protection? Do any have adverse effects, such as actually causing dryness or skin irritation or exposing you to toxins? Plus, are any addictive? We asked Sonia Badreshia-Bansal, MD, a Board Certified Dermatologist and Fellow of the American Academy of Dermatology (AAD), these and other burning questions about lip protection.


Lipstick May Be Toxic

In 2007 the Campaign for Safe Cosmetics released a report that found lead in half of the 33 brand-name lipsticks they tested. Although the FDA has no standards for regulating cosmetics and the tested lead-levels would not pose a health threat for most, the authors of the report advise that pregnant women and small children avoid using lipstick because lead exposure can disrupt normal development. Even low levels of lead can add up, since lead is also commonly found in paint and drinking water.

At the Store: Among the top brands testing positive for lead were L'Oreal's Colour Riche "True Red" and "Classic Wine," Cover Girl's Incredifull Lipcolor "Maximum Red," and Dior's Addict "Positive Red."


Say Goodbye to Dry

To prevent dry, chapped lips, look for moisturizing ingredients such as glycerin, beeswax, natural oils or petrolatum. Choose lip balms that are ointment formulations containing very few ingredients, ideally less than five. One pick that meets these criteria is Vaseline's Lip Therapy Petroleum Jelly Advanced Formula, which contains only one ingredient: petrolatum. Petrolatum is the "gold standard" for moisturizing both the skin and lips says Dr. Badreshia-Bansal. Depending on the severity of dryness, she recommends frequent applications throughout the day which could mean up to at least four-six times a day for severely dry lips.


Irritating Ingredients

Some chemicals found in lip balms can actually irritate the skin and cause allergic reactions. If you keep buying lip balms that leave you with dry, itchy or red lips, try avoiding parabens, fragrance, glycolic or salicylic acid, oil of cloves (contains eugenol) and lanolin. Menthol and camphor can cause a tingling sensation, that could also be an irritant, but the effect is not drying.

At the Store: Some products that contain these culprit ingredients include Natural Ice Medicated Lip Protectant, Blistex's Herbal Answer, and Banana Boat's Aloe Vera with Vitamin E.


Are Lip Care Products Addictive?

You may feel addicted to lip balms or moisturizers because you've become so used to the feeling of well-moisturized, soft, supple, and non-irritated lips, but there is no research to prove that any ingredient in lip balms is addictive, says Dr. Badreshia-Bansal.

Understanding Sun Protection Factor

You want to make sure that your lip product with sunscreen has a "Sun Protection Factor" or SPF of at least 15, and blocks both UVA and UVB rays, recommends the AAD. While excessive exposure to both kinds of rays can lead to skin cancer, UVA rays are associated with premature aging of the skin and UVB rays are responsible for sunburns. When it comes to SPF, higher isn't always that much better. For example, SPF 30 screens 97 percent of UVB rays, while an SPF of 15 screens 93 percent of UVB rays, according to the AAD.


Maximize Your SPF

To minimize sunburn and skin aging, apply your lip sunscreen 15-30 minutes before going outdoors and reapply at least every two hours or after swimming or perspiring heavily because "even so-called 'water-resistant' sunscreens may lose their effectiveness after 40 minutes in the water," according to the AAD. Dr. Badreshia-Bansal says this rule should apply to lip products with SPF protection too. Plus, for added protection, consider lathering on lipstick, which adds another layer of barrier providing sunscreen protection.

At the Store: Look for products containing titanium dioxide, like ChapStick Ultra Moisturizing Lip Balm, SPF 30, or zinc oxide found in LipCotz and/or the AAD Seal of Recognition given to exemplary sun-protecting products.

What Can Weaken Your Protection?

Lip sunscreens are not resistant to water, food, or licking your lips. Heat can degrade sunscreens, so don't leave them in your car. Generally, sunscreen products have a shelf life of about a year.


Best Anti-Aging Measures

Keep your lips as hydrated as possible to hide lines and wrinkles, says Dr. Badreshia-Bansal. Regular use of products with sunscreen of SPF 30 or higher is the most important step in preventing future sun damage and skin cancers. Also, lip treatments that contain retinol, glycolic acids, and/or antioxidants may be helpful, but be cautious as retinols and acids may also irritate the skin, so always moisturize frequently.


When Should You Notice Fewer Lines and Wrinkles?

Nothing can reverse skin damage. All you can do is prevent future signs of skin aging. However, lines and wrinkles can be improved very quickly with moisturizers and sunscreen.